The hillside cemetery here is unlike any other in South Korea. The graves have no headstones. Instead they have identical, meter-long, white wooden stakes, most of them reading "Anonymous" and revealing little else about those lying beneath.

And, in contrast to the Korean tradition of aligning graves toward the south, those here, arranged in neat rows, all face north. In other words, they all look homeward.

Decades after they fell in combat during the 1950-53 Korean War or their postwar espionage missions ended in gunfights with South Korean troops, the Communist warriors buried here still await a trip home. Their remains are unclaimed by their government, which denies sending armed infiltrators into the South.