Every year around this time, a tempest brews in the mountains just north of Madrid. On the weekend closest to Nov. 20, devotees of Francisco Franco, who died on that day in 1975, travel to the elaborate basilica-turned-mausoleum called Valley of the Fallen, where he is buried. There, they pay homage to the general who ruled Spain as dictator for nearly 40 years. Because the site is owned by the state, the event produces heated complaints over the Spanish government's continued financial support for what some see as a monument to fascism. But this year, it isn't just the leftists who are up in arms; the small band of monks who oversee the basilica have their own reasons for gently rebelling....