Mad Men City | Jimmy’s La Grange

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“Sweetheart,” a character shouts to a secretary in the “Mad Men” episode airing Sunday, “8 o’clock Saturday night, Jimmy’s La Grange.”

Pause! Rewind! Jimmy’s what?

It’s Restaurant Week in New York City, but a quick look at the Zagat’s guide showed that you won’t be booking a table for two at Jimmy’s La Grange: There is no such restaurant, putting us on the hunt for a bit of Old New York....

The New York Times gave Jimmy’s two stars in a brief review in 1965, a few months after Don Draper’s visit depicted this weekend. “This small, interesting restaurant boasts only one menu, and that is in the owner’s head,” the review read. On this next note, Don would agree: “On a first visit, chicken Kiev (chicken breast stuffed with butter and herbs) is almost mandatory, and it is very good.”

Peter Morrell, 66, an owner of the famous wine store that bears his family’s name, lived upstairs and ate at Jimmy’s a few times a year. “Jimmy was a character,” he said. “When you sat down at a table, he would come over. ‘No menu, no menu. Today’s pasta is Bolognese sauce. You take that, then you take veal.’ He was a bit of a dictator, but a nice one.”...

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